Jibhi, A Himalyan Hamlet

Navigating through adulthood and a busy work life, I have somehow forgotten how it is to travel and discover new places. So when I saw that a 3-day weekend was coming my way, I decided that it was time to rediscover myself. I settled on Jibhi, having fallen in love with photos in a National Geographic Traveller feature.

Jibhi, is a quite little hamlet in the state of Himachal Pradesh around 520 KMs from New Delhi. The best way to reach Jibhi via road is to take an overnight bus to Aut along the Delhi-Chandigarh-Manali highway. Since it was a long weekend, all the buses were pretty much booked to Manali, but I managed to get a seat booked.

On Friday night, I made my way to the Inter State Bus Terminal at Kashmiri Gate. The last time I was there, was in 2008 when my cousin & I decided to have an impromptu getaway to Dharamshala. As I got out of the metro station and walked towards the ISBT entrance, I couldn’t quite believe how the building has transformed itself into a swanky airport like structure. As it was the Independence Day weekend, there was massive security screening with long, winding queues to enter the terminal. With barely 20 minutes for the scheduled departure, I wasn’t even sure if I would make it inside.

Somehow, I did. The bus was a regular non AC city bus where the seats don’t even recline. It was a weird, rather uncomfortable overnight journey but I was very excited to be away by myself. After almost 12 hours on the road, the bus crossed a final 3 KM long tunnel section to reach Aut.

From Aut, a small busy transit town, I took a local bus to Banjar some 27 KMs away. Jibhi is another 8 KMs from Banjar town.

16 hours, 3 bus rides later I finally arrived in Jibhi. The bus-rides by itself is probably worth the entire trip! The Beas river, the steep ridges and the lush Himalayan forests. Absolutely gorgeous!

As I got out of the bus, I almost immediately spotted the Inn I was staying at. I made my way up, and settled in. The view of the mountains from my room was simply unimaginable.

After a quick hot shower, I decided to check the magical Jibhi waterfalls, a 1 KM walk from the village. I say magical because I read about a rare optical illusion at the waterfalls: a double rainbow. As I started my walk to the waterfalls, the clouds let go and it started pouring. It was an amazing experience to walk along the lush mountain trails while soaking in the rains. The waterfalls however was a little bummer for me, there was no double rainbow for me to awe at.

At the waterfalls, I ran into two sisters from Delhi I had shared the bus ride with. The three of us decided to take a walk exploring the village of Jibhi. The village trails along the apple orchards, pine trees and the cloudy skies gave me the magic that I missed out in the form of rainbows at the waterfall.

The next day, I woke up early with a plan to catch the 9:00 AM bus to Jalori Pass, 12 KMs away from Jibhi at an elevation of 3,100 Meters. As I was waiting for the bus, I noticed a girl & a guy trying to figure something out. We began talking, and she said that she was hoping to find more people to share a taxi with to Jalori Pass and back. Since the bus was nowhere to be seen, I decided that I would join them. Sasha is a Siberian working near New Delhi and Pratik was a colleague of hers from Maharashtra. Half way to Jalori Pass, we picked two of their friends at Sojha.

We reached Jalori Pass around 11:30 AM, we walked into a dhaba and got ourselves some chai and omelette. There are two treks in the opposite directions from Jalori to explore: the ruins of Raghupur Ghar Fort and the sacred Saryolsar Lake.

We decided to head to the ruins of Raghupur Ghar Fort first. At the dhaba, we made acquaintance with a guy who was going to his village; he agreed to take us halfway through the trail before he went onwards in a different direction. The 4 KM trail starts off rather gentle through the lush forest before taking a steep ascent. The trail isn’t clearly marked and one has to decide for themselves how to navigate their way through the climb. As I made my way through, I couldn’t help but wonder how a simple slip could send me tumbling down the steep ends. This concern was however discarded with ease because of the magnificent views the trail offered. After the ascent, we found ourself in a lush endless meadow. The ruins of the fort was still nowhere to be seen, and it had started to drizzle. The mist set in and I couldn’t help but wonder if this really was heaven.

After what felt like a never ending climb, I finally got a glimpse of the fort. We made our way into the ruins, the fort by itself is barely there… but the view of the valley even on a foggy day was totally worth the effort of the climb!

We returned to Jalori Pass around 2:45 PM and sat down at the dhaba for some chai. As we discussed the second trek to Saryolsar Lake, our taxi driver advised us against it. He said that there wasn’t enough time and it would get dark and unsafe because of the rains. It was pouring! We decided that it was something we really had to do! Coming all the way there and not seeing the sacred lake?

At 3:00 PM, we started the 6 KM trek to the lake. This trail is very popular and the only trek most people who visit Jalori Pass undertake. It is considered an easy trail, but coming off a rather difficult 4 KM trek to the ruins, the way to the lake wasn’t easy at all for me. The rains compounded the difficulty as the trail was slippery. However, we were determined to see the lake and since we knew we were really short on time, we literally undertook a sprint. The entire 6 KM trail to the lake was covered by Sasha, Pratik & I in one and half hours.

The view of the lake, in the rain, was absolutely stunning! I was so glad that we came here. I could understand without any questions asked why the lake is considered sacred by the locals.

We sat by the lake for 15 minutes, getting drenched in the rain, before reluctantly deciding to head back to Jalori Pass. The trek back was one of the most difficult things I have undertaken in a very long time. Half way through, I couldn’t move anymore! Sasha was however, such a good cheerleader, that I managed to push myself beyond what I thought I could. As we got closer to Jalori Pass, the sun was setting and the sky just lit up in colours that I couldn’t believe were real. That gave me the extra push I needed, and we finished the trail to reach Jalori Pass at 6:45 PM.

The drive back from Jalori Pass to Jibhi was terrifying and thrilling! The fog had set in so much that I couldn’t see anything right in front of our taxi. Add to that, the rain drenched muddy road! Our driver Teku confessed that it was a difficult drive back, even for him.

Back in Jibhi, I took a hot shower to wash away the mud I had accumulated in my 20 KM trek of the day! For someone with barely any stamina or any routine physical activities, I was quite proud that I managed to get through!

After the shower, I met Sasha & Pratik for dinner at the Doli Guest House where they were staying. Doli Guest House was where I wanted to stay first, but they were booked with no rooms available. It really is an amazing guesthouse. The food was amazing and we had a lovely night chatting away.

The next day, I had planned to take the taxi to Shringa Rishi Maharaj temple and then trek further to Chehni Village. Pratik joined me in the trip with Teku, our taxi driver.

The temple is accessible by road, but because of the rains the road was muddy and Teku took us till the point from where we could trek to the temple along the apple orchards and oak trees. Teku walked along with us on the trail.

On a regular day, this would be a very easy climb… but after the 20 KMs the day before, I was totally pooped. I took it very slow & easy with plenty of stops along the way to catch my breath.

After much huffing and puffing, I finally made it to the temple. Shringa Rishi Maharaj is the presiding deity of the Banjar Valley. The temple is a simple, wooden structure painted in bright colours. The three of us went inside and I offered my prayers to the beautiful idol of the Maharaj. I sat inside for 10-15 minutes, taking in the quietness and calm.

From the temple, the village is a further 30 minute walk uphill. I was still struggling, but seeing the villagers go about with such ease- even with big baskets filled with apples from the orchard on their back- pushed me to get going. A little while later, I finally got the first glimpse of the towering Chehni Watchtower. The photos of the tower I saw in National Geographic Traveller was the main reason I made this trip and it was totally worth it!

I crossed the remains of the Chehni Fort, now a Krishna temple, as we entered the village. A little further up, along the village square stands the magnificent five-story watchtower, with a slight lean. A rare example of the Pahadi architecture, the tower is said to be 1,500 years old.

Across the village square, opposite to the watchtower stands the Bhandar where the temple artefacts of the Shringa Rishi Maharaj is stored.

A friend of Teku joined us while we sat in the village square. He offered us chai, and we chatted away soaking in this beautiful village on a sunny afternoon.

We returned to Jibhi and I checked out from my inn. I met up with Sasha & Pratik at Doli Guest House for lunch and to wait out the hours before heading back to Aut. All of us had similar departure times for our buses to Delhi, so we shared a taxi to Aut instead of changing two buses.

Waiting for the bus at Aut was definitely a bizarrely funny experience. Manali to Delhi is a very busy route with a crazy number of bus services. As we were waiting in Aut, at least some 30-50 buses must have zipped across! It was so busy and chaotic! We had to constantly look out for the bus numbers to be sure that we didn’t end up missing ours! My bus finally arrived at 8:30 PM, a full hour and half late. Thankfully, I had booked myself an AC Bus with reclining seats for the return trip and it was a fairly comfortable ride back to Delhi.

I reached home around 9:30 AM, took a shower and left for office after a lovely weekend away!

The Arabian Dream.

It’s over a week since I got back to India. The three months in Dubai went by in a blink! While I didn’t think much of the place going in, I was sad coming back… mainly because of the great time I had with my family. Hopefully, I will always maintain a flying relation with the city.

Graffiti, Dubai style.

The Cayan Tower at Dubai Marina, my favorite building in the city!

The Dubai Marina.

The Burj Khalifa.

Dubai from At The Top, Burj Khalifa.

Moving on.

I am starting to realize that getting accepted at a graduate school is the easier part and going on to attend is entirely different. Almost a month of extensive research and there is absolutely no progress on my search for external scholarships or need based financial aid. It isn’t going to change either: there is absolutely no external funding for international graduate students.

I have no choice but to decline the admission offer- I cannot afford it. It’s frustrating and I feel terrible. That’s life- isn’t it?

Evaluating Acceptance.

A few days back, I received my decision letter from Parsons. I have been accepted for their MS Strategic Design and Management program starting Fall’14! While I am extremely happy that I got admitted, it has put me in a very confused state of mind. As of now I haven’t received or qualified for any scholarship or financial aid. There is absolutely no way I can attend without receiving some sort of assistance. The Indian Rupee is terribly weak against the US Dollar. The estimate they have given (tuition +  living expenses in NYC) for a year is more than 8 times my last annual income! I have written to their financial aid office explaining my situation and asking for advice. Let’s see what they have to say. I really hope something can be worked out and that I can actually be there.

In other news, I have finished the first of three months in Dubai. While I am enjoying my stay here, there is absolutely no progress on the job hunt. With my acceptance at Parsons and assuming that I do attend- I am not sure how Dubai fits in anymore. The term at Parsons start in late August, about 5 months from now. If I get a (good) job here in the coming weeks, isn’t that too short a period? Maybe I should do the first semester online while I work here and move to New York in time for the second semester.

The never ending probabilities! This is one of those times when I wish for things to be straightforward and in absolutes. However, for now I think I shall just be. Let every day lead me to the other… hoping time shall bring the clarity I need. That’s all.

The Sand On My Feet.

Three weeks have already gone by in this Arabian oasis. Why is time in such a hurry? Can it slow down so that my soul can catch up with it?

In these three weeks, I have seen much of the city already. From the absurd palatial scale of the malls and the retail culture to the beautiful beaches.  I am not going to write anything about the malls- a mall is a mall- no matter how grandiose. No photos, no words.

Here’re some more glimpses of what makes Dubai.

Jumeirah Beach. I am in love. Bliss!

The Jumeirah Open Beach

The Burj Al Arab

And they turn a desert into this! The lush greens of Creek Park. The weather is still good and the summer hasn’t started yet. The Creek Park was so full of life! Big family picnics, barbecues, badminton and football and an abundance of laughter.

The lonely Abra at the Dubai Creek Park.

Hello Dubai!

I can’t believe it’s been more than a week since I arrived in the city. The first of twelve weeks is gone already and time does really fly. The first impressions? In many ways, Dubai feels like an Arab Singapore- it’s very structured, organized and big-brotherly. Almost the entire city has been build in the last decade or two and there is definitely a sense of opulence.

I still haven’t explored the city much. My focus has been to check the opportunities out there and see if something interesting strikes. So I spend almost the entire day at home on the internet and I step out only in the evenings.

For now, a few glimpses of what I’ve seen so far.

The mandatory shot of Burj Khalifa, the new icon of Dubai.

Al Fahidi Fort at Dubai Museum.

The Souks of Bur Dubai.

Al Abras in the Dubai creek at Bur Dubai.

The minaret of the Grand Mosque.

Taking Chances.

My ex-boyfriend once described me as ‘Determination Personified’. In the many years since- I can’t even remember how long- life has taken me on routes that made me so uncertain of myself. Accepting adulthood hasn’t been easy. When faced with situations where reality and compulsions refuse to accommodate dreams and aspirations, the determination starts to waver and we question our essence. We use, misuse and abuse our dreams- only to eventually discard them and build new ones.

This is the year that I am making a return to the determination. I guess it is the realization that you can’t really change your core. I can not make peace with the assumption that my life should be tailored to fit other peoples expectation. I refuse to accept that growing up means making peace with a job that makes you painfully unhappy, but you still wake up and do it just so that you can pay the bills. It’s such a strange world we live in.

I have spent the past few months back in Cochin with my parents and I have been able to clearly think about what I want to do or more importantly: what I do not want to do. After much consideration, I decided that I should apply for graduate school. It is something that has been there in the back of my mind, but I never pursued it seriously enough till recently. Over the last year, I realized that I wasn’t happy with my job or even my broader career direction. I won’t deny that I have enjoyed the many years in fashion, but deep down I have always felt unfulfilled on some intellectual level. I have also reached a level of mature acceptance that I’m a good designer, but not necessarily the most brilliant creatively. My strength lies in a solid understanding of design concepts and thinking- I am best when I have to evaluate a design, edit and give direction. I am a better design manager than a designer. For that transition to be effective, I have to go back to school.

As someone looking to leave fashion and enter the broader paradigm of design and business, there is only one program that interests me- Strategic Design and Management at Parsons. The program details and what it promises to be feel like a right fit for me. I have sent in the application and I’m awaiting the decision. I am so nervous! While I’m satisfied that I have submitted a good personal statement, one can never be sure. What I am worried about is the critical thinking writing sample; I could have done way better than what I submitted! For now, there is nothing more I can do but wait and hope that the admissions office find the best in me!

In the meanwhile, after almost 9 years in New Delhi it is time for me to bid adieu to this wonderful city for good. I really can not explain how I feel… it’s so strange. I have lived in New Delhi for more years than in any other place. I moved here at 18 for college and I made it my city. It’s a city I love and also one I hate… so many memories!

This Friday, I fly to Dubai for 3 months. It’s the first phase of a life in transition. I am excited but very nervous too. I have family and friends in the city, and I have decided that I will fly there, rough it out a little with them and just see what the city has to offer me! It is the mecca of opportunities and I am hoping that I will find something which excites me. By mid March I am expecting the decision on my graduate school application as well. If I get accepted, I have till about September before classes begin- about 6 months to work and gain some experience in the city. If I like my job too much, I can always transfer to online classes for a semester or two. If I don’t get accepted, well, it’s good that I didn’t wait to get started with this trip. 😛

So, here I am. Taking chances. All over again.

The Travel Import.

I’ve imported all the travel posts from my old blog and categorized them into a new section.

Hello, again!

Revisiting the pages of my old blog and reading my thoughts and life over the years made me realize why I had blogged in the first place- to help the present/future me reconnect with my past self. The outright silliness of some moments, the surprising depth of some (fleeting) emotions, the adventures in travel- it’s so easy to be forgotten in the randomness of daily life. With six years of blogging on Xanga and an absence of almost two years- I’m starting new, starting fresh.

Why now? Well, this year I am embracing some definitive changes in my life. What they are? I can’t predict. I see so many possible routes laid ahead of me with such different directions that the only thing I can be sure of -as of now- is change. A change in cities, a change in the career direction, an expansion of friendships, the discovery of new, the broadening of life. This is exciting times- scary, but exciting and I don’t want the future me to forget these moments.

Here’s the new years of blogging. Hello, again!

 

Goa!

Sun, White Sand Beaches, Sea, Alcohol, Food, Friends… what a fantastic way to end a crappy year and start a brand new awesome one!

One week of pure bliss in South Goa. Here are some pics.

I always love to write my name and wait for the waves to wash it away.

The Pool at our resort (Soul Vacation)… we spent a major chunk of our time in it!

We rented bicycles to ride around. I love to cycle…

Fresh sea food to choose from at Mickey’s!

And the Goan style lobster was delicious!

Goans have this tradition called ‘Burn the old man’ on New Years eve. The old man represents the year that has gone by. People write their hopes and wishes for the year to come and burn them with the old man in a bonfire.

My friends somehow managed to convince me for this! They turned me into a hermaphrodite mermaid- notice the boobies and a penile hump?! They couldn’t even get the placement/proportions right! Sheez!!! I give them a F for such a bad job.

Waiting to get a table at Martin’s Corner… this place is wildly popular!

And the King Crab in their specialty Goan masala style was divine! Damn! I want more of it now.

We also spent a few hours on board Casino Royale. Yes, Casino Royale- very bond like indeed. Gambling in mainland India is illegal, the Goan tourism industry and the government has a solution- convert ships in to a casino and dock it near the mainland! Take speed boats to the ship, have all fun that you want making or losing money and then come back!

Since all of us have been to Goa before, we didn’t do any sight seeing except for a visit to the Basilica of Bom Jesus again.

The relics of Saint Francis Xavier at the Basilica.

It was such a fun, relaxing trip… we can’t wait to go on another holiday soon!